In most of my bare bones setups I have multiple widths of perches, these range from the thickness of my little finger, to the thickness of my arm. My second impression is that the perch width is very uniform. Make it so that they don’t always follow the same path across their cage. If you can, give your bird multiple ways to get somewhere because you will find. If I can turn my cage into a tree – I will. I tend to prefer to give my birds a variety of angles to climb on. I’ve done a previous post on perch angle, which can be found if you click here. That’s great but the natural perches are in almost the same position that dowel perches are usually placed. These cages traditionally come with two dowel perches and I was relieved to see that they have been replaced with two natural perches. In terms of cage setup my overall first impression is that everything is very horizontal. It was more than a relief when flight training helped calm him down. Whenever he got out of his cage, his favorite game was: “Let’s grab and throw every household item on the ground and see if it smashes?” Unfortunately, most things do smash when thrown by a galah. It’s made a world of difference to my guys, particularly with my male galah Merlin. In terms of training in this situation, I’d recommend the Beginner Course. I’m also thinking some indoor recall flight training would really help her galah burn off some of that excess energy. The upper half of my friend's galah's cage
There’s also some training that I think her galah would benefit from. There are things that she can do to make more use of the space in his cage. The way I look at it, her problem is twofold – one part is cage setup and the other is behavioral. I’d be willing to bet that the above situation is exactly what many people are experiencing. So the reality is, a lot of birds are living in these indoor cages. Not everyone has the space or the money for a large outdoor aviary. I thought it was an interesting situation because I’m pretty sure a lot of people could relate. It’s like he has slept all day in preparation for going crazy when he finally escapes the cage.
He becomes hyperactive, “screaming and carrying on” and “always pushing the boundary of his behavior”. When she gets home from work, she lets him out of the cage for the evening. He prefers to play with the foraging tray when it’s out of the cage and on the floor in the living room rather than when it’s in his cage. So what’s the problem? The problem is that her bird only uses the upper half of his cage and she’d like him to use all of it. It’s one of the largest, decent quality indoor cages available. There are a lot of cheap, poor-quality imports available here in Australia and this cage isn’t one of them. It’s not the dangerous type of powder coating either. It’s not stainless steel (they’re very hard to find here), but it is powder coated. As for the cage, it’s one of the better quality indoor cages that are available for purchase in Australia. Toy rotation, decent vet care – they’re something a lot of birds aren’t lucky enough to have. There’s no sign of self-harm or feather mutilating behaviors but she thinks the cage setup can be significantly improved to improve mental stimulation and isn’t waiting for those behaviors to develop before she does it. The bird is in good health and sees an avian vet for regular checkups. What toys her bird likes one week, he won’t necessarily like the next. She told me that she uses a foraging tray in the bottom of her cage and rotates her toys. Which means that she sent me a picture of her cage without its normal arrangement of toys and foliage in order to make it easier for me to see perch placement and the basic layout. She wanted to know what I would do differently? She sent me a photo of the ‘bare bones’ of her cage setup. In short, she was struggling for inspiration and trying to deal with several problems. I received a message from a friend asking for help with her Galah/Rosebreasted Cockatoo’s cage setup.
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